'86 GSXR Have Parts

Mail Fraud is a federal crime! We will report you if you f**k with us!

Gearheads, be careful when purchasing with money. Someone named "James Anderson" from the UK is perpetuating a scam by asking for payment and not sending the parts. That's one of the reasons I prefer trades. Never send money orders, money grams, wires, or the like. Use Paypal or personal checks, so you can stop payment if the parts don't arrive.

2010-09-04 12:02:07 Jason graysgodfather@aol.com
86 GSXR 1100 for sale. Bought it from a guy who rolled it and was going to restore it. I did drive it home that day but it has been sitting since. 5 years now. You pick it up in Chicago will not ship. First $600 FIRM takes it. Call me if you have any questions 773-742-3825

2010-08-28 18:46:48 Dave davejbruno74@cox.net
Have every part for 1986 gsxr 1100 also have extra heads blocks,and piston kits.

2010-08-15 12:16:01 dave davejbruno74@cox.net
to many to list have almost every part for gsxr1100.Bike is for sale to has lots of moter work and high HP.

2010-06-04 13:41:16 Jimmy Foxymotorsports@aol.com
Suzuki GSXR 750-1100 86-67 86-88 CDI Boxes NEW Discontinued Dealer Retail was $605.99 but most are gone i will be selling well under that Give me a call 603 867-1962

2010-05-08 09:34:03 george ruddell george_stix@hotmail.com
Hi. I have most fairing panels for an '86 slabside gsxr including a single seat cowl. I also have oil filters for 750's and a few foot peg hangers

2010-04-30 18:14:28 John ural-gsxr@hotmail.com
Just looking for a complete used Bandit 1200 engine to hide under the faring...
I have a blue/white 86 GSXR 1100, V&H pipe (with extended tailpipe to silencer), stock CV carbs with shortened slide springs & K&N pod filters: that after fiddling on the dyno that Nigel/Chris @ RETRO CYCLE in Red Deer AB 403-346-0228 & previously riding several years with that "just off-idle throttle roll-on hiccup," it was discovered that OEM needles cleaned up the heavy fuel : air ratio @ steady throttle position! The Dynajet ones were untunable in my situation, taking in mind I am in Calgary, AB Canada... Way above sea level! Also the bike is fitted with: V&H ignition advancer, DYNA coils & wires (had to mount them under tank attached to the frame since they are larger than stock). And a pair of FIAMM Italian electic horns mounted under the seat where the old airbox was (no hacking of wire or anything the like was needed, as I am trying to keep the old GSXR "stock-looking" as possible. And lastly: A home fabricated (sorry I don't weld) an alum. rack that fits a SHAD 46L topcase (using the pillion grab rail mounts & intergrating the rear indicator mounts as well, thus no butchering). Cheers, John

2010-03-30 20:53:00
Hello George. Thank you for taking the time to respond. I have a project and just want to know if I'm going about it the correct way before buying materials. I have 2 motorcycle gas tanks that have dents. I have a Uni-spotter gun to pull most of the metal back into shape. In case you've never heard of it before. Uni-spotter is an electrical gun, you place a copper pin like piece into the nozzle and then hit the trigger and it tack-welds to the work, pull the metal and afterwards you grind the pin away. This means that you never go thru the base material: fender, tank etc. Some areas however have creases in the metal, and I'm limited as to how much I can straighten by only having access to one side. These sharp creases in the metal have me worried that the tank will leak fuel. One pinhole and over time it would ruin the paint job and start to leak. Therefore, my next plan is to braze over any suspect areas with bronze flux coated rod. However when i went to purchase the material today from Air-Gas the sales rep told me that bronze acts sort of like a sponge and that in a short amount of time the brazed area would most likey leak. His opinion was that: (1) bronze is porous and would most likey leak and (2) paints/primers etc do not adhere to bronze very well. I've already brazed one area using 3/32 flux bronze rod. I'm my limited opinion it's to large and takes alot of heat to make it flow out. However those finished areas once ground down and shape look acceptable, but I haven't tested with fluid in the tank. So when I went shopping today I thought of using 1/8 rod (keep in mind that the tanks are thin mild steel and I don't want to use so much heat as to burn thru). Don't laugh but the first round of brazing was completed using MAPP gas. I have a ( again don't laugh) Benzomatic combo torch, you hook one side up to MAPP or propane and the other side up to oxygen. Cheap yes but i'm guessing that the combo torch would get hotter than the MAPP alone. So all that said, do you think that brazing over suspect areas using bronze rod is correct? TIG ? Other? Thanks

2010-03-30 14:04:39
I have a CDI for a 1987 gsxr 1100 200.00 has 14400 miles on it i replaced it with a dyno tech system. It still works.i have a 1986 gsxr 750 or 1100 not sure upper fairing. it has a peice broken off where the mirror attaches 175.00 i have left and right mid panels , they have had repairs done to them 100.00 for the set. I have a complete 1987 gsxr 1100 in fair condition needs new rings in the number 1 cylinder and has the dynotech 2000 electric system on it 14400 miles red and black. i might part it out if i cant sell it. 3000.00 the upper has a piece broken out where the handle bar pushes into and some cracks around the blinkers the left mid has a piece missing where it mounts to the lower the rest just has light bruises. it was not crashed just pushed over a couple of times. I have a CDI for a 1987 gsxr 1100 200.00 has 14400 miles on it i replaced it with a dyno tech system. It still works.i have a 1986 gsxr 750 or 1100 not sure upper fairing. it has a peice broken off where the mirror attaches 175.00 i have left and right mid panels , they have had repairs done to them 100.00 for the set. I have a complete 1987 gsxr 1100 in fair condition needs new rings in the number 1 cylinder and has the dynotech 2000 electric system on it 14400 miles red and black. i might part it out if i cant sell it. 3000.00 the upper has a piece broken out where the handle bar pushes into and some cracks around the blinkers the left mid has a piece missing where it mounts to the lower the rest just has light bruises. it was not crashed just pushed over a couple of times.

2010-03-30 14:03:23
Probally teaching most to suck eggs here but i had no idea how to remove my GSXR750H (1986) carbs for cleaning. Here is a guide to what i did. 1. Remove seat. 2. Remove tank bolts infront of seat 3. Unscrew petrol tap making sure pointing down in the ON position 4. Pull up tank and remove fuel lines. 5. Lift tank out. 6. Unfasten the air filter box (3 bolts) 7. Slacken the 8 clips attaching both sides of the 4 carbs around the carb boddies. 8. Pull pack the rubber from the airbox side on all carbs until clear. (These are a pain and will need to be worked off pushing back into the air box) 9. One airbox side clear. Put seat back on. Sit on seat and grab the carb assy pulling firmly side to side out of the front rubber hoses. 10. Undo the throttle assembly (slaken the nuts at the bottom and slide out) 11. Clean carbs. 12. To replace carb assy remove air filter from air box as gives better access to the rubber hoses to push back on. Remove and Spray all airbox rubber hoses with WD40 to aid lubrication. 13. Push the carb assy back into the engine side and tighten up the 4 clips round the carb bodies. Make sure all the way in. 14. From the airbox push the hoses back in. Rememeber the 2 side rubbers are different as have angled hoses. 15. Using brute force take your time working the hoses through the airbox and over the individual carbs. You need to make sire you get the rubber seal through all the way around so sits over the plastic lip on the carb side creating a good seal 15. Put back the 4 remaining clips. 16. Put tank back on. Reverse take off procedure. 17. Youre done. Put back all parts of filter and bike back together. 18. Turn fuel onto lfet or right position to allow fuel to flow. Wait a while turning throttle. You may hear the carbs filling. Pull choke in and out a few times. 19. Start your engine. May splutter to start with. 20. Hopefully all running well after a 5 minute run. Hope this helps. While fiddly and a pain in the backside is possible for anyone to do.Probally teaching most to suck eggs here but i had no idea how to remove my GSXR750H (1986) carbs for cleaning. Here is a guide to what i did. 1. Remove seat. 2. Remove tank bolts infront of seat 3. Unscrew petrol tap making sure pointing down in the ON position 4. Pull up tank and remove fuel lines. 5. Lift tank out. 6. Unfasten the air filter box (3 bolts) 7. Slacken the 8 clips attaching both sides of the 4 carbs around the carb boddies. 8. Pull pack the rubber from the airbox side on all carbs until clear. (These are a pain and will need to be worked off pushing back into the air box) 9. One airbox side clear. Put seat back on. Sit on seat and grab the carb assy pulling firmly side to side out of the front rubber hoses. 10. Undo the throttle assembly (slaken the nuts at the bottom and slide out) 11. Clean carbs. 12. To replace carb assy remove air filter from air box as gives better access to the rubber hoses to push back on. Remove and Spray all airbox rubber hoses with WD40 to aid lubrication. 13. Push the carb assy back into the engine side and tighten up the 4 clips round the carb bodies. Make sure all the way in. 14. From the airbox push the hoses back in. Rememeber the 2 side rubbers are different as have angled hoses. 15. Using brute force take your time working the hoses through the airbox and over the individual carbs. You need to make sire you get the rubber seal through all the way around so sits over the plastic lip on the carb side creating a good seal 15. Put back the 4 remaining clips. 16. Put tank back on. Reverse take off procedure. 17. Youre done. Put back all parts of filter and bike back together. 18. Turn fuel onto lfet or right position to allow fuel to flow. Wait a while turning throttle. You may hear the carbs filling. Pull choke in and out a few times. 19. Start your engine. May splutter to start with. 20. Hopefully all running well after a 5 minute run. Hope this helps. While fiddly and a pain in the backside is possible for anyone to do.

2010-03-29 23:29:27 Crystal femme069@msn.com
Ignore the posting for the gsxr's for sale or parts...gmoncrief@hotmail.com keeps posting crap because I got him removed from this site for screwing me on a part. It's amazing how immature ppl can be. Please beware of buying parts from him, he posts on other sites as well. He goes by Greg Moncrief and if would like to contact him and let him know how you feel about scammers like him let me know and I'll be happy to provide you his contact info. It always sucks to see good people get screwed so I hope I can save this from happening to anyone else. Note - He has also been posting bikes on craigslist which are not my postings so if you see any gsxr parts or bikes with my email address these are fakes. Sorry if you have tried replying to any of those posting but there is no bike or parts for sale. What a jerk!

2010-03-29 20:48:50
Probally teaching most to suck eggs here but i had no idea how to remove my GSXR750H (1986) carbs for cleaning. Here is a guide to what i did. 1. Remove seat. 2. Remove tank bolts infront of seat 3. Unscrew petrol tap making sure pointing down in the ON position 4. Pull up tank and remove fuel lines. 5. Lift tank out. 6. Unfasten the air filter box (3 bolts) 7. Slacken the 8 clips attaching both sides of the 4 carbs around the carb boddies. 8. Pull pack the rubber from the airbox side on all carbs until clear. (These are a pain and will need to be worked off pushing back into the air box) 9. One airbox side clear. Put seat back on. Sit on seat and grab the carb assy pulling firmly side to side out of the front rubber hoses. 10. Undo the throttle assembly (slaken the nuts at the bottom and slide out) 11. Clean carbs. 12. To replace carb assy remove air filter from air box as gives better access to the rubber hoses to push back on. Remove and Spray all airbox rubber hoses with WD40 to aid lubrication. 13. Push the carb assy back into the engine side and tighten up the 4 clips round the carb bodies. Make sure all the way in. 14. From the airbox push the hoses back in. Rememeber the 2 side rubbers are different as have angled hoses. 15. Using brute force take your time working the hoses through the airbox and over the individual carbs. You need to make sire you get the rubber seal through all the way around so sits over the plastic lip on the carb side creating a good seal 15. Put back the 4 remaining clips. 16. Put tank back on. Reverse take off procedure. 17. Youre done. Put back all parts of filter and bike back together. 18. Turn fuel onto lfet or right position to allow fuel to flow. Wait a while turning throttle. You may hear the carbs filling. Pull choke in and out a few times. 19. Start your engine. May splutter to start with. 20. Hopefully all running well after a 5 minute run. Hope this helps. While fiddly and a pain in the backside is possible for anyone to do.

2010-03-29 20:45:11 asdf@hotmail.com

Honda Magna VF700C 1985 Clymers
Suzuki GS550 DOHC not CV carb Factory
Honda XL500S XL500R 1979/1982 Factory 6143503
Yamaha XT550K Factory LIT11616-XT51
Yamaha Radian YX600SC YX600S Factory LIT11616-05-06
Kawasaki ZXR750 ZX7 Factory 99924-1112-01
Honda Interceptor VFR700F VFR750F 1986/1987 Factory
Yamaha FZR750RT FZR1000T FZR1000U Factory LIT11616-05-61
Yamaha FZ750N FZ750NC FZ750S Factory LIT11616-04-66 LIT11616-05-01
Yamaha XS1100 1978/1980 Factory LIT11616-XS-12
Yamaha XS400J XS400RJK XS400RK Factory LIT11616-0291
Kawasaki ZX11 ZZ-R1100 Factory 99924-1159-03
Honda XL250S XL250R 1978/1982 Factory 6142804
Kawasaki Ninja 750R GPX750R Factory 99924-1079-02
Kawasaki Ninja ZX11 ZZ-R1100 Factory 99924-1127-54
Honda VFR750F S/M 1990 Factory 3460383
Yamaha XJ700XN XJ700XNC Factory LIT11616-04-68
Honda 250 350 Twins 1968 -> Haynes
Yamaha XS750D XS750SE Factory 11616-01-07
Honda NT650 Hawk 1988/1991 Factory
Kawasaki Ninja ZX6 ZZ-R 600 ZZ-R500 Factory 99924-1128-02
Yamaha FJ1100 FJ1200 1984/1987 Factory LIT11616-FJ-12
Suzuki GS1150 Factory 99500-39032-03E
Honda XL250R 1984/1987 Factory
Yamaha FZR600 W-B Factory LIT11616-FZ-00
BMW K100 K75 1983/1987 Haynes 1373
Kawasaki KZ650 Fours 1977/1980 Clymers M358
Honda VT700 VT750 1983/1987 Clymers M313
Honda Rebel 250 Twinstar 250 1978/1987 Clymers M324 New
Suzuki TM 125 Factory
Kawasaki KZ900 KZ100 Fours 1973/1978 Clymers M354
Kawasaki KZ500 KZ550 ZX550 1979/1985 Clymers M449
Honda XL XR 250, XL XR 350, XR200R 1978/1987 Clymers M328
Yamaha XJ550 FJ600 1981/1985 Clymers M387
Honda 250-305 Twins All years Clymers M330
Kawasaki KZ500/550 ZX550 1979/1985 Clymers New
Suzuki GS 750 Fours 1977/1982 Clymers M370
Honda CR500R ProLink 1981/1986 Clymers M343
Suzuki GS550 1977/1986 Clymers M373 New
Kawasaki 305 500 750 Triples 1969/1972 Clymers
Suzuki GS650 Fours 1981/1982 Clymers M364
Honda CB500 CB650 1983/1985 Clymers M345 New
Honda 250 350 Twins 1964/1974 Clymers
Kawasaki KZ1000 KZ1100 Fours 1981/1985 Clymers M451
Honda CB650 Fours 1979/1982 Clymers M336
Honda CB900 CB1100 Fours 1980/1983 Clymers M325
Honda CBR600 F1 Hurricane 1987/1990 Clymers M439
Honda 350 500 Fours 1972 Clymers M332
Honda VF500 V Fours 1984/1986 Clymers M329
Honda VF700 VF1100 V Fours 1982/1986 Clymers M327
Honda CBR600F2 1991/1994 Clymers M441
Honda VT500 1983/1984 Clymers M344
Honda GL1000 GL1100 Fours 1975/1983 Clymers M340
Honda CB550 CB650 Nighthawk 1983/1985 Clymers M345
Yamaha 250 - 500 Enduro & Motocross 1968/1978 Clymers ??????
Honda 750 All Models 1969/1972 Clymers ??????
Honda CB750 SOHC Fours 1969/1978 Clymers ??????
Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane 1987/1990 Clymers M349
Kawasaki KZ400 KZ440 EN450 1974/1987 Clymers M355
Honda 250 - 450 Twins 1978/1983 Clymers M334
Honda 250 - 360 Twins 1974/1977 Clymers M323
Honda 450 All models 1965/1972 Clymers
Yamaha XS Twins 1970/1982 Clymers M403
Yamaha XJ550 FJ600 1981/1985 Clymers M387
Honda CB750 DOHC Fours 1979/1982 Clymers M337
Honda 350 - 5550 Fours 1972/1978 Clymers M332
Yamaha FZ700 FZ750 Fazer 1985/1987 Clymers M392
Yamaha YZ125 - YZ490 1985/1987 Clymers M390
Yamaha Rotory valve singles 1963/1971 Clymers

2010-03-29 20:41:03 asdf@hotmail.com
Honda CB 700 SC IC Igniter , Part: TID14-26 Picture IG666
Yamaha XJ 650 Turbo IC Igniter and Regulator/ Rectifier , Part TID14-13 Picture IG660
Suzuki GS 550 ES IC Igniter , Part 32900-43400 BB1208 Picture IG661
Honda CB 550 SC IC Igniter , Part 131100-3541 Picture IG672
Yamaha XT 550 IC Igniter , Part 070000-96 Picture IG663
Honda CB 650 SC IC Igniter , Part 131100-3680 Picture IG665
Kawasaki ZX6 ZX600 1991 IC Igniter , Part 21119-1288 Picture IG670
Regulator/ Rectifier Part: SH236B-12 Picture REG681
Honda CBR 600 F1 Regulator/ Rectifier Part: SH541-12 Picture REG777
Regulator/ Rectifier Part:SH543-12 Picture REG680
Honda CBR 600 F1 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH541D-12 Picture REG683
Regulator/ Rectifier , Part:SH232-12 Picture REG678
Kawasaki GPZ 750 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH548-12 Picture REG667
Honda CB 550 SC Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH254-12 Picture REG673
Kawasaki EX 500 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH530-12
Honda VF 500 Interceptor Regulator/ Rectifier, Part: SH538-12 Picture REG662
Kawasaki GPZ 750 IC Igniter , Part: 21119-1069 Picture IG664
Honda CB 700 SC IC Igniter , Part: TID14-26 Picture IG666
Yamaha XJ 650 Turbo IC Igniter and Regulator/ Rectifier , Part TID14-13 Picture IG660
Suzuki GS 550 ES IC Igniter , Part 32900-43400 BB1208 Picture IG661
Honda CB 550 SC IC Igniter , Part 131100-3541 Picture IG672
Yamaha XT 550 IC Igniter , Part 070000-96 Picture IG663
Honda CB 650 SC IC Igniter , Part 131100-3680 Picture IG665
Kawasaki ZX6 ZX600 1991 IC Igniter , Part 21119-1288 Picture IG670
Regulator/ Rectifier Part: SH236B-12 Picture REG681
Honda CBR 600 F1 Regulator/ Rectifier Part: SH541-12 Picture REG777
Regulator/ Rectifier Part:SH543-12 Picture REG680
Honda CBR 600 F1 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH541D-12 Picture REG683
Regulator/ Rectifier , Part:SH232-12 Picture REG678
Kawasaki GPZ 750 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH548-12 Picture REG667
Honda CB 550 SC Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH254-12 Picture REG673
Kawasaki EX 500 Regulator/ Rectifier , Part: SH530-12
Honda VF 500 Interceptor Regulator/ Rectifier, Part: SH538-12 Picture REG662

2010-03-25 02:46:54 Neil neiljohanson@hotmail.com
Check this out if your looking for parts! All you have to do is enter your motorcycle criteria in to the spaces, then it sends out mass emails to loads of motorcycle shops vying for your buisness! http://www.riderparts.com/ I hope this helps ...send me a thanks via email if it does! cheers!!

2010-03-25 02:33:57 Neil neiljohanson@hotmail.com
I had a 2nd gear slippage issue...shift forks and gears were shot! I used Lynn Knepper's repair out of PA...i live in Canada and had NO issues doing buisness with lynn!In fact i continue to support him and order my parts from him! Old school gixxers are his specialty... Lynn Knepper Repair 1315 Indiantown Rd Somerset, PA 15501-5533 (814) 445-2499 I highly recommend him!im sure he will have what your looking for! And yes beware of Azzholes like gmoncrief@hotmail.com HE WILL RIP YOU OFF!!!ive heard it over and over again!

2010-03-23 23:42:05 Bert gsxr11j@yahoo.com
Two sets of very nice rotors for 1985-87 750 86-88 1100 I think they are race and they are NOT STOCK but from that time. 1986 speedo and gauge cluster 46k miles but works pingle petcock make me a offer? get this stuff out of my way!

2010-03-22 16:54:40 WILL wmoran5757@yahoo.com
I GOT THE 1052 CYLINDER WITH ALL 4 PISTONS AND PISTON PINS. GOT A STOCK REAR RIM W/ SPROCKET CUSH DRIVE WITH A RACE SLICK.

2010-03-07 20:19:30 Bart Heruth inet101@streetfightercafe.com
Front & lower engine mount plates with misc mounting hardware for 750/1100. Seat locks w/cable complete 750/1100 Other items listed at; http://streetfightercafe.com/ONLINE_STORE.php

2010-03-07 20:17:16
I have a CDI for a 1987 gsxr 1100 200.00 has 14400 miles on it i replaced it with a dyno tech system. It still works.i have a 1986 gsxr 750 or 1100 not sure upper fairing. it has a peice broken off where the mirror attaches 175.00 i have left and right mid panels , they have had repairs done to them 100.00 for the set. I have a complete 1987 gsxr 1100 in fair condition needs new rings in the number 1 cylinder and has the dynotech 2000 electric system on it 14400 miles red and black. i might part it out if i cant sell it. 3000.00 the upper has a piece broken out where the handle bar pushes into and some cracks around the blinkers the left mid has a piece missing where it mounts to the lower the rest just has light bruises. it was not crashed just pushed over a couple of times.

2010-03-07 15:02:59 Crystal femme069@msn.com
Ignore the posting for the FREE 87 gsxr...some jerk posted it.

2010-03-06 17:39:09
I have a CDI for a 1987 gsxr 1100 200.00 has 14400 miles on it i replaced it with a dyno tech system. It still works.i have a 1986 gsxr 750 or 1100 not sure upper fairing. it has a peice broken off where the mirror attaches 175.00 i have left and right mid panels , they have had repairs done to them 100.00 for the set. I have a complete 1987 gsxr 1100 in fair condition needs new rings in the number 1 cylinder and has the dynotech 2000 electric system on it 14400 miles red and black. i might part it out if i cant sell it. 3000.00 the upper has a piece broken out where the handle bar pushes into and some cracks around the blinkers the left mid has a piece missing where it mounts to the lower the rest just has light bruises. it was not crashed just pushed over a couple of times.

2010-03-06 17:38:18
Im looking for a black and red upper fairing for an 86 gsxr. and front stock turn signals. If there is anyone with these plese let me know. I have an 87 750 that I may be able to pull some parts off of if need be for a trade. thanks for any help. samandje@yahoo.com

2010-03-06 10:15:31 Paul Scotti scotti@bodysync.ca
87 AND 88 GSXR 1100's for sale or parting out! What ado you need. Plastics of course are had to come by. And another motor but bad crank for 89 1107

2010-03-05 10:16:44 asdf ASDF@hotmail.com
Swingarm, Cylinder, GSXR Alternator, Head with valve cover, Oil Cooler

2010-03-03 23:58:17 Crystal femme069@msn.com
BEWARE of gmoncrief@hotmail.com he sent me the wrong part and never sent me the part I paid for even after trying to make contact via email and phone.

2010-01-28 00:09:11 Bart Heruth inet101@streetfightercafe.com
Front & lower engine mount plates with misc mounting hardware for 750/1100. Seat locks w/cable complete 750/1100 Other items listed at; http://streetfightercafe.com/ONLINE_STORE.php

2010-01-27 12:29:02 Eli Westfall eliwestfall@me.com
Sorry wrong email on last post: I have most of the plastic off a '86 1100. It is black and white and a little rough around the edges. It is in very used shape. Parts I have are: front fairing, front plastic, both side mid pieces, both rear pieces, and the rear seat cover. Make offer on all or some. Can send pics if you want.

2010-01-27 12:27:25 Eli Westfall eliwestfall@mel.com
I have most of the plastic off a '86 1100. It is black and white and a little rough around the edges. It is in very used shape. Parts I have are: front fairing, front plastic, both side mid pieces, both rear pieces, and the rear seat cover. Make offer on all or some. Can send pics if you want.

2010-01-09 15:09:08 Tony Patton gs11508@yahoo.com
I have 8 used 34mm intake boots in good condition. I would like to sell them for $40.00 plus shiping or trade them for 4 to fit 40mm carbs. Thank Tony (770) 865-3035